Boa Island is the largest inland island in Ireland. It sits in lower Lough Erne, which is in County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland and since 1927 has been accessible, at both ends of the island, by road bridges. A main road, A47 from Belleek to Omagh, runs across the length of the island. The distance around the island is 20 kms measuring its coast line. I didn’t intend cutting any corners so I thought this would be the paddling distance.
The day before my intended start I reconnoitred the start and finish from the jetty at Brockagh Point which is also where you can take a ferry across to Lusty Beg Island. I paddled 20 minutes each way. The next day Trish dropped me off and I set off at 11am with an estimate of six hours to get round.
I decided on a clockwise direct which meant heading west and into the wind for the first leg. Lough Erne is a big expanse of water and as I left the shelter of Lusty Beg the water was choppy. Luckily I was heading mostly into the wind which makes handling easier. As you near the west end of Boa Island the way forward is confusing. I consulted the map and GPS to determine my position. Looking at the map you would think that you could pass under the A47 on the east side of Inishkeeragh, however, the road bridge is to the west with a picnic site symbol next to it on my map. I had checked this part out by car the day before so it wasn’t too difficult to work out from the water.
Technical bits:
I was paddling an Esky 13 touring kayak using a set of split paddles. The map I used was the Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland, Lower Lough Erne, Discoverer Series, Sheet Number 17 at 1 to 50,000 scale. I also carried a GPS which I use for walks and an Expedition 4 Compass by Silva. I used information relating to the Canoe Trail on Lough Erne from the Northern Island Tourist office. (Canoe Trail web address: www.nicanoeing.com)
Grid References: Start and finish 108 625 (Don’t forget to change your GPS to the Irish grid!)
I rounded the west end and had a brief conversation with a man tending his motor boat at a jetty on Inishkeeragh. He said that in straight line to reach the east end of Boa Island just head for the wind mills. I wasn’t going to do that as I intended hugging the coast line but the wind mills kept appearing and disappearing as I round the various points. I found a pull in for my first stop of the day marked Mullans on my map. I had been on the go for two hours with just over a quarter of the trip done. At this rate it would take me eight hours! As I headed east the wind started to blow and sky became very dark. The wind was on my back creating some waves which did speed my progress. However, as I approached Rossgole Point Inner these waves were hitting me side on as to get around the point I need to head north! Just before the point I chickened out and clambered out to walk the kayak round some very rocky bits. I was now very wet as sometimes my shorts were in the water and the waves kept bashing in from the west. I knew once around the point all would be OK so I pressed on and as soon as I got the wind on my back I got back in. The wind then sped me east to Portinode Bridge where I again passed under the A47. As I rounded the point to head west again, I found a sheltered jetty to rest up and eat before the final push.
I had made good time with the wind so was now up on time but I knew this last stretch would be into the wind. Luckily the various islands south of Boa afforded some shelter from the west wind and the waves. However, I was outside my lowly comfort zone going around Gubbakip and used all the shelter I could get in the bay to its west. The final stretch was sheltered by Lusty Beg Island and after a brief chat with the ferry man I arrived at my start and finish point just before 4pm.
The journey time of just less than five hours was OK for a solo paddle; I think six hours would be more suitable for a group. The best parts for me were along the south side of the island, with good views and on the day I paddled more sunlight. On the north side it was very dark and I found the various wire fences projecting out into the lake ugly. The main hazard is the wind which can cause large waves.
Happy paddling from Bob Mossop