General information
This route gives you a day trip, with a circular route, thus avoiding having to arrange transport or having to paddle the same stretch of water twice.
Total distance: approximately 12 miles
Suggested duration: one day, circular route.
Our starting point is the Quay in Exeter. Parking is available in the cathedral and quay multi-storey or there is a large car park on the Haven Road side. The cathedral and city centre are within easy walking distance. There are plenty of places to launch on both sides of the river or canal.
Setting off down stream we soon reach the area of Trews Weir. On the left is the Port Royal pub. The weir, built in the 1860s, is shootable at most water levels and when low a diagonal fish run will provide sufficient depth.
The building on the left, known as the Old Match factory (now flats) was built in 1774. Continuing, we pass the city parks nursery. Keeping well to the right (to avoid conflict with property owners) we reach Salmon Pools Weir. A shoot is possible at most levels either down the face or using the diagonal fish run. When the river is high, be aware of the strong holding stopper and tow back, which runs most of the length of the weir. The weir pool and the river below is affected by the tide and is an important salmon fishery. Relations with the fishermen are generally very good and if you ask, then permission will often be given to pass quietly downstream. If necessary a short portage along the left hand bank can be arranged.
The river then sweeps around behind some desirable residences and Countess Wear bridge is reached.
The Exe was tidal as far as the present position of Head Weir prior to 1282, and ships could dock as far upstream as our starting point. This was changed when Isabella de Fortibus built a barrier at Countess Wear, diverting shipping trade to Topsham, and a canal was built in 1563 to bypass this. At certain states of the tide there are strong eddies and standing waves downstream of the bridge. Below the bridge it is possible to portage along the old Exeter bypass to the canal, but there is an easier portage 200 yards downstream over a narrow neck of land by the sewage works entrance.
The small channels on the left hand bank were the site of a ship-building yard up to the 18th century and ships of up to 600 tons were built and launched here. A glass works was established in the same area, now called Glasshouse Lane, in the 18th century, using coal mined from the site of the present day university campus.
Back on the river we pass under the motorway bridge, through the mooring and reed beds to Topsham. Here another portage to the canal is possible using the passenger ferry slipway on the right hand bank.
Topsham has all the facilities of a small town, including some very fine pubs. The architectural style of many of the buildings reflects Topsham’s former trading links with foreign countries and many are built from materials imported as ballast.
Leaving Topsham, the estuary now begins to widen and the deep water channel starts to meander. The most direct route is not necessarily the quickest, and it is advisable to stay in the deep water channel indicated by the buoys and marker poles.
Eventually the channel sweeps under the right bank and the deep water entrance to the canal at Turf is visible. Disembark onto the ‘quay’ at a convenient point and carry the short distance past the lock to the wide mooring basin of the canal.
Turf is very isolated and can only be reached on foot or by water. The Hotel remains much the same as when designed in 1823. The large entrance lock has curved gates built mainly of wood. The top gate has two ground paddles and three gate paddles; the bottom one has six gate paddles. All paddles are operated by hand windlasses. The chamber is 122 feet long, but ships of up to 136 feet can be accommodated as the central hand rails on the gates are moveable. The curved sill of the upper gate is 7ft 6in. above the lower, and the average rise is about ten feet, although this can vary as the entrance approach is tidal. Turf is an ideal picnic spot and it may be possible to camp here.
The first section of the canal runs almost straight with the estuary on your right, to a wooden bridge opposite Topsham. Here a footpath from the Swan’s Nest Inn at Exminster crosses to reach the passenger ferry slipway. The lock is now abandoned and blocked off.
Further on, near the hazard warning notices, the canal narrows and the curved stones of the entrance sluice to Trews canal are still visible. On the left the tall chimney of the former Exminster Hospital is visible. Beyond the motorway bridge the canal opens out to be almost lake-like. On the left are the remains of a wharf serving the lime kilns which are still just visible in the undergrowth. The canal then narrows again and we reach the crossing point of the old A38, the Exeter by-pass. Here there are two bridges, the old swing bridge and a newer lifting bridge opened in 1971. At Double Locks there is another Inn, dating from 1701.
The lock pond is very large, 312 ft by 25 ft. and the gate paddles which let water in and out are operated by wheels instead of hand windlasses. The gates nearest the Inn have wooden balance beams, which came from the mast of HMS Exeter following a re-fit at Devonport in 1940, after the action in the River Plate.
The canal now skirts the edge of the Marsh Barton Trading Estate and away in front is a magnificent view of the city and the cathedral. Just past the Welcome Inn it may be possible to branch right and regain the river, providing the lock gate is open. Alternatively continue into the canal basin, where there are many small boats.
Now the round trip of some 12 miles has been completed. Shorter journeys are possible using the intermediate portages described. Both weirs are shootable, but groups should form their own conclusion and formulate their plans bearing in mind the prevailing conditions and the expertise of the individual member.