It was a chilly Saturday in September that I found myself stood at 7.40am waiting for the start of the River Stour Trust’s Sudbury to the Sea event in the shadow of The Granary, Quay Lane in Sudbury, Suffolk. My two Sudbury CC companions had left me with the canoes and equipment while they drove to what would be the over night stop at Wissington near Nayland some eight miles away.
Fortunately, my mind could be distracted from the temperature by reading maps which accompanied details of the navigation route provided once a modest registration fee per vessel had been paid and watching the numerous arrivals of other entrants of all ages with their various types and coloured craft. Another more popular method of warming up was from the hot bacon butties and drinks for sale from the Trust’s facilities in the Granary, which while I declined, my friends on their return almost ran to.
Single, double and open canoes were the main choice of the day but two entrants decided on a coracle and an inflatable dinghy! These boats when loaded, like ours, were put to the water in the river cut for the first leg of the journey, the camp site at Wissington. As each craft left the cut and headed left onto the main river at last the heat of the brilliant sunshine warmed us up. Only 24 miles lay ahead of the Stour’s finest, meandering waters complete with the odd weir or two and the operational locks of Cornard and Flatford.
Cornard lock gently lowered us to the next stretch of water to Henny Weir – a nice trip especially as we caught up with the chap with the coracle. He was holding up a bright red and white umbrella as a sail and was being propelled quite swiftly, this was a good photo opportunity well taken. After portaging at Henny it was then nice to stay in our canoes to shoot the next two weirs of Pitmire and Lamarsh before arriving at Bures playing fields for a well earned lunch.
On again to another portage at Bures Mill, a lovely spot once in the mill pool and then onto Wormingford Mill with again a short portage and a coffee from the flask.
After around eleven miles we finally arrived at Wissington being greeted by the Trust with buns and hot drinks. An array of tents and some caravans were already set up as was the BBQ and logs ready for the evenings camp fire. After what seemed a short sleep we were off again though first we had to drive to Catterwade, the sea end, to leave a car for our return that afternoon and then we drove back to Wissington to continue our paddle. Giving lifts to other paddlers all added to the friendly atmosphere that was being enjoyed by everyone.
Slipping into the river along with a number of other craft we left some of the ‘late sleepers’ to continue washing up their breakfast things, pack up tents or generally sort their boats out. Wissington Mill portage was first to negotiate followed by a paddle under the main Sudbury to Colchester road at Nayland. After paddling past several river fronted properties and taking the right bend in the river we were confronted by a three step weir, which does of course have full portage facilities but, had to be done. So keeping a good straight line and a fast paddle to begin, over we all went one at a time.
The river then for ? of a mile or so narrows mainly because of reeds, general foliage and was also very shallow in places. The bottom of our boats made contact with the river bed several times and having to bow rudder to go with the flow was the only way through in places. Opening back out to wider water brought us to the next portage at Boxted Mill. Then under the bridge and onto Langham flumes, which this time was canoed though with extra care as there are several small rocks at its end!
Stratford St. Mary came into view as did the Trust’s check point and ideal lunch spot with pub for drinks and hot meals. Bar staff served us paddlers, many still wearing full waterproof gear including spray-decks and buoyancy aids, without batting in eye, though at times I guess even they might have admitted that the mix of river water, duckweed and perspiration might have been a little ‘over powering’!
Seal launching back into the river then saw us heading for Dedham. We and a few others then struck lucky, because having just passed under the road bridge by the Tollbooth riverside restaurant we watched a grass snake swim by and then followed a Kingfisher which flew ahead of us skimming the water between perches for a good mile.
A short portage at Dedham Lock into its mill pond and then off paddling under the bridge, passing the tea rooms and moored for hire rowing boats. Some paddlers stopped for tea and cake though we continued travelling between Dedham and Flatford. For us just as we arrived, Flatford’s lock was open so straight in and to the front where we sat while other joined us. A good time for a chat, coffee and a Mars. Out into Flatford’s Mill pond and another photo opportunity, everyone paddling out of the lock, a rare sight. A look around now saw that a number of people had gathered to watch the lock in use, the mill itself looked quite different from our low vantage point and a little down river Willy Lotts cottage fleetingly appeared from behind trees into view. Not much further until the finish point at Catterwade, but first a large sluice is paddled past through which you can see the sea water reed beds. Following this point you suddenly become aware that the river banks have become reeds and that trees have all but disappeared. After some meandering eventually we reached Brantham, Catterwade Bridge. Just prior to landing a Trust volunteer told us that by paddling though the nearby tunnel under the Ipswich to Manningtree road would enable us to see and touch the sea wall so… off we paddled. Through the tunnel we came across a fine, red brick, three arched bridge to pass under into the basin and ‘the wall’. Nothing spectacular, but a wall to touch, Sudbury to the Sea completed.
Back at the finish the Trust handed out hot or cold drinks and biscuits to the 140 participants that had crewed the 97 craft along the route and everyone landing spoke of their adventures and sightings. Boat designs, types and builds were discussed, as were negotiations about how to get lifts back to where ever cars had been left. A superb weekend, which everyone enjoyed thanks to the organisation by Sudbury’s River Stour Trust.
This whole stretch of river, 24 miles, can be paddled all year round and can be done in various sections at a time with car shuttling. The only courteous notice having to be given is to the owner of Boxted Mill for that particular portage. The event described here was from 2005 though 2006 was just as eventful with even more paddlers and craft.